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Clutch sticking during high RPM shifts *HOW TO FIX IT!*


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39 replies to this topic

#1 Yankee-eight

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 08:22 PM

Well as some of you know I had the high RPM clutch pedal stuck on the floor issue. NOT ANY MORE!


** Disclaimer** I take no responsibility if you perform this modification, use at your own risk!!!** Ok now with that out of the way.....

Here's what to do if you are having the same problem as me. (The first three pictures are not mine they are from a user called black03 from svt performance. his pictures will be marked with a *)

Tools needed:
1 medium size flat head screwdriver.
1 work light.

Approximate time: 15 Mins.


Ok the first pictures are showing the difference between a GT500 pedal assembly and a 5.0 mustang.

* Gt500 on the left note the spring on the pivot point. 5.0 note the valve spring looking setup.

Posted Image





* A closer look at the gt500 pivot spring.

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* A closer look at the 5.0
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Ok I looked at my pedal setup and I have both springs. One spring on the pivot and the valve spring.
Posted Image



Ford put this "Assist Spring" on there to help reduce pedal effort. The problem is this assist spring Binds when the pedal is pushed all the way down. It binds to the point of sticking the pedal on the floor. I checked the binding problem by disconnecting the clutch slave and pressing the pedal.


The assist spring works against the pivot spring and the assist spring is stronger. So you get the result of a sticking pedal.



The Pins holding the assist spring.
Posted Image




Ok now for removal.

STEP ONE: Locate the top pin. (DO NOT REMOVE THE BOTTOM PIN FIRST AS THIS WILL BREAK THE PLASTIC SECURING THE TOP PIN!)

When you find the TOP PIN it feels like its threaded but rest assured its just a very tight press fit.

You may find it easier to press the pedal down to take pressure off the TOP PIN But only back the pin out enough to get the flat head under there because if the pin is sticking to far out it will hit the pedal assembly when you release the pedal ( And possibly breaking the plastic!)

Posted Image




Ok now that you have your gap slowly release the pedal and make sure you have clearance. Once the pedal is released you can start backing out the TOP PIN with your flat head.

STEP TWO. Remove the TOP PIN


You will find it harder to push the pin out because the spring has tension on it. Patience you will get it.

Posted Image


Just be careful take it slow and use solid points to help you pry the pin out. ***(Be careful when the pin is close to coming out because this sucker will shoot out! Maintain positive control of it so you don't lose it!)**


Posted Image

Posted Image


Remove the pin. Now the only thing holding the assist spring on is the bottom pin.


STEP THREE: Removing the assist spring assembly.

Use caution because the spring has grease on it and you don't want that crap on your carpet. So once again work slowly and press the pedal down to remove spring tension.

Grab the assist spring assembly and rotate it down and pull it off the bottom pin and remove.

Posted Image

http://i6.photobucke...rs/IMG_1577.jpg


Now it's just like the GT500 setup!

http://i6.photobucke...rs/IMG_1578.jpg










Ok now this modification will increase pedal effort about 15% BUT the pedal feel is now linear with no dead zone. It feels great!

Now go out and test your 7500+ shifts and enjoy a 100% functional pedal :)

Edited by Yankee-eight, 06 April 2012 - 08:28 PM.

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#2 Unrealford

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 09:38 AM

When this happens, (Pedal Sticking) what will you notice? When I am trying to shift at high RPMs into 3rd, I have trouble..
I use to get lockout into 3rd and 4th but with MGW this doesnt happen, But what I had happen 3x since I will get a grind going into 3rd, Is this due to pedal sticking?

#3 SoFlaBoss

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 12:52 PM

I had the pedal hang-up once about 3/4 of the way down when shifting at 7400 from 3rd to 4th. It wasn't just that the pedal would not return, the pedal didn't disengage the clutch, so I couldn't shift into 4th or any gear. The pedal returned to the top after I had coasted 3-4 secs and after tapping the pedal a few times. Clutch felt normal afterwards. I'll be adding a high volume hydraulic clutch line to see if that corrects the problem. Otherwise, I'll be taking it into my Ford dealership for service.

Edited by SoFlaBoss, 22 April 2012 - 12:53 PM.


#4 Unrealford

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Posted 22 April 2012 - 05:14 PM

I had the pedal hang-up once about 3/4 of the way down when shifting at 7400 from 3rd to 4th. It wasn't just that the pedal would not return, the pedal didn't disengage the clutch, so I couldn't shift into 4th or any gear. The pedal returned to the top after I had coasted 3-4 secs and after tapping the pedal a few times. Clutch felt normal afterwards. I'll be adding a high volume hydraulic clutch line to see if that corrects the problem. Otherwise, I'll be taking it into my Ford dealership for service.

I bought that line from Lethal, thanks for the tip.!

#5 sadil

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Posted 01 August 2012 - 06:42 PM

This is definitely a lot harder then t looks. I just spent half an hour trying to take the damn pin out and then my dad came and pushed it back in by accident... now its flush. Cant figure out how to push the pedal and press the other end of the pin....what a pain.

Update!

After my impatient 24 yr old immature mind cooled off, and with a little help from my dad, I went back to the car and finished the job. All I have to say is wow. Note, I have never driven the car on the track, and have never had the opportunity to do 7500 rpm shifts. I am prepping the car and getting a hang of driving and this mod caught my eye. I always felt (though I had no experience to back it up) that something was missing in the clutch pedal of the car. Or more accurately, something was there that should be. I hesitated b/c I thought it wouldnt really help me, but I am glad I made the right call and went for it.. From the first couple shifts, I have noticed an improvement in shifting. I felt that I hesitated too much with the original setup, and this setup allows me to shift more naturally. The car was a pleasure to drive, and now is just a dream. Now to move on to the MGW shifter, I have received it but am contemplating a drive shaft upgrade too and am holding off on the shifter install until I decide. Thank you Yankee Eight for the awesome how-to!

Edited by sadil, 01 August 2012 - 10:14 PM.

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#6 302 Hi Pro

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Posted 05 August 2012 - 08:58 AM

Yankee-eight:

Excellent post and directions to improve the Boss 302 clutch operation. I experienced the dreaded "dead pedal" yesterday afternoon during a 2-3 shift above 7,000 rpm. When it happened, the Boss was dead in the water, had to just coast in neutral, pump the dead pedal and then, it came back.

It took me about 20-25 minutes to complete, it's cramped under there! I also used a needle noise plyer to assist with the top pin removal being careful not to break the plastic spring seats. What a difference! The clutch pedal now feels like it is connected to the clutch pressure plate. A little run this morning to test out the results showed positive results. I should have done this on Delivery Day, it's that's good!

Thank you for the post and the instructions. All the best, 302 Hi Pro
20140810_163952_zpsksksih1y.jpg

2012 KB 500A Boss 302 - Production Number 2800. Special Ordered Options, Recaro Sport Seats & 3.73:1 Torsen Differential.Ford Racing Performance Parts, (FRPP), UpGrades & Modifications. | Engine: FRPP 84.5MM TB, Boss 302S Peterson CVS, FRPP TracKey, Sound Tube Delete Billet Aluminum Cap, FRPP High Flow K&N Drop In Air Filter. | Transmission - Drivetrain: AE 4.0" Aluminum DS, MGW Competition Spec Shifter & Heat Shield, GT500 Clutch Pedal Box, FRPP High Flow Stainless Clutch Fluid Line, FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop. | Exhaust: Magna Flow Street/Comp 3.0" Stainless Cat-Back Boss 302 X-Pipe System, Open Boss Side Pipes & Lowered Tips. | Suspension: FRPP "T" Boss 302 Spec. Springs, Koni Sport (Yellows), Steeda HD Camber Plates, Kenny Brown GT4 Roll Center Relocation Kit, KB Street/Comp LCA's, KB LCA Relocation Brackets, Steeda Adj. UCA & Steeda Energy Suspension Sys. Upper Diff Housing Bush | FRPP GT500 Forged wheels, (19X9.0 F & 19X10.0" R) | Brakes: FRPP Boss 302 Cooling Duct Kit, Steeda SS Brake Lines, GT500 13.8" Rear Rotors, GT500 HP Rear Brake Pads, Dot 4 High Temp Fluid, | Body: FRPP Boss 302S Grill, FRPP GT500 Rear Spoiler & Serviceable Gurney Strip, 3M Window Tint, (35/20), OEM Boss 302 Floor Mats & Boss 302 Car Cover, Pioneer TS-D6802R Speaker System, MonoChromatic Rear View Mirror, (Auto Dim, Home Link & Compass).

#7 mmihld

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 09:46 PM

How hard is it to put back if needed?

#8 mmihld

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Posted 07 August 2012 - 09:47 PM

By the way, thanks for this writeup, its very detailed and helpful!

#9 calimr

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 03:37 PM

Yankee, thanks for the thread. This one has been linked many places, and is great info. I have an alternative method I just used, as I was having trouble getting the top pin out. I used a needle nose vice grip (they make one with flat long tips for stuff like this, but mine seems to have taken a walk as it wasn't in my toolbox) and compressed the spring by gripping the middle two rings while the pedal was pushed to the floor. I then pushed on the top housing and it simply fell out. Then I slid off the bottom pin. Be careful, as the spring and clamp will fall on the floor and it is greasy.

My issue when I tried your method I think is that the top pin was not aligned to allow it to come out (as it has a flat section inside) but I could not get it lined up. Clamping the spring took about 30 seconds to get the spring out, most of which was trying to angle the vice grip to fit between the rings and not slip out. Plus about 5 minutes of trying to climb into the seat ass over head so I could fit both my fat arms under there.

I am not really on this forum, just created an account to try to help anyone else having difficulty, but I will try to remember to check if anyone posts wanting a better explanation.

Posted Image

Ignore the zip ties, they do not have enough strength to hold the spring down. Not even close.

Edited by calimr, 12 August 2012 - 03:41 PM.


#10 65sohc

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Posted 12 August 2012 - 06:26 PM

A mini spring compressor. Very ingenius. I wonder why the pedal only sticks at high RPM.

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#11 powershift46

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Posted 21 August 2012 - 02:01 PM

Have some questions about the sticking petal.

1. Do all BOSS 302"2 have this problem?
2. DO all BOSS 302's have two springs?
3. DId someone try this and still had the petal stick?

#12 302 Hi Pro

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Posted 30 August 2012 - 11:11 AM

Greetings Mustang MT-82 Drivers:

I have a 2012 Boss 302 and I thought I would never have this problem as the TSB indicates this only happened on 2011 models. My car is not a DD and I might put 500 miles a month on her, and did not experience this problem until (about) 3,500 miles. Then, during a meet and greet with a pesky WRX, it happened during my second to third shift. I completed this modification on August 4, 2012, and the problem has not returned.

To me the clutch now feels better and so far, no more clutch pedal stuck to the floor and that is good news.

On another note, my Boss now has 4,200 miles, and is running very well. Not perfect, the only complaint I have is a clunk noise when pushing the clutch pedal in. Yes, there is a clunk noise (when hot) and I depress the clutch pedal. Sounds like it is coming from the bell housing area. I will try to get it over the Service Department in September and if necessary, get the Factory Rep to test the car with me. Will keep you posted. 302 Hi Pro
20140810_163952_zpsksksih1y.jpg

2012 KB 500A Boss 302 - Production Number 2800. Special Ordered Options, Recaro Sport Seats & 3.73:1 Torsen Differential.Ford Racing Performance Parts, (FRPP), UpGrades & Modifications. | Engine: FRPP 84.5MM TB, Boss 302S Peterson CVS, FRPP TracKey, Sound Tube Delete Billet Aluminum Cap, FRPP High Flow K&N Drop In Air Filter. | Transmission - Drivetrain: AE 4.0" Aluminum DS, MGW Competition Spec Shifter & Heat Shield, GT500 Clutch Pedal Box, FRPP High Flow Stainless Clutch Fluid Line, FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop. | Exhaust: Magna Flow Street/Comp 3.0" Stainless Cat-Back Boss 302 X-Pipe System, Open Boss Side Pipes & Lowered Tips. | Suspension: FRPP "T" Boss 302 Spec. Springs, Koni Sport (Yellows), Steeda HD Camber Plates, Kenny Brown GT4 Roll Center Relocation Kit, KB Street/Comp LCA's, KB LCA Relocation Brackets, Steeda Adj. UCA & Steeda Energy Suspension Sys. Upper Diff Housing Bush | FRPP GT500 Forged wheels, (19X9.0 F & 19X10.0" R) | Brakes: FRPP Boss 302 Cooling Duct Kit, Steeda SS Brake Lines, GT500 13.8" Rear Rotors, GT500 HP Rear Brake Pads, Dot 4 High Temp Fluid, | Body: FRPP Boss 302S Grill, FRPP GT500 Rear Spoiler & Serviceable Gurney Strip, 3M Window Tint, (35/20), OEM Boss 302 Floor Mats & Boss 302 Car Cover, Pioneer TS-D6802R Speaker System, MonoChromatic Rear View Mirror, (Auto Dim, Home Link & Compass).

#13 Bad Boss 302

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 03:12 PM

Hi Pro, re-check the torque on the driveshaft bolts. I picked up a very little noise after I installed the aluminum driveshaft. Not bad but different noise from the stock D/S. As far as the clutch pedal sticking, it happened to me twice while a 2-3 shift at redline. It seems with more age & miles on this beast, things are loosening up. I don't have any grind at all from the PRC transmission unlike when it was new. I got 12500 miles on the beast and things just seem to be getting better.
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#14 302 Hi Pro

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 09:50 PM

Bad Boss 302: Thanks for your advice, I will head over to the shop on Saturday morning, I plan to detail the undercarriage and will recheck the torque on the DS bolts. I did use blue thread locker during the install. We will see. I will also put a tech in the driver seat to operate the clutch with the car in the air as I check the external operation of the clutch (if anything is visible) and then try to get a bead on the location of the noise. Will keep you posted to what I find.

As for the MT82, I have to say the transmission is 200% better now that I have 4,500 miles on the car. No more crunching and no problems at all with up or down shifting. Have a great week-end, Hi Pro
20140810_163952_zpsksksih1y.jpg

2012 KB 500A Boss 302 - Production Number 2800. Special Ordered Options, Recaro Sport Seats & 3.73:1 Torsen Differential.Ford Racing Performance Parts, (FRPP), UpGrades & Modifications. | Engine: FRPP 84.5MM TB, Boss 302S Peterson CVS, FRPP TracKey, Sound Tube Delete Billet Aluminum Cap, FRPP High Flow K&N Drop In Air Filter. | Transmission - Drivetrain: AE 4.0" Aluminum DS, MGW Competition Spec Shifter & Heat Shield, GT500 Clutch Pedal Box, FRPP High Flow Stainless Clutch Fluid Line, FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop. | Exhaust: Magna Flow Street/Comp 3.0" Stainless Cat-Back Boss 302 X-Pipe System, Open Boss Side Pipes & Lowered Tips. | Suspension: FRPP "T" Boss 302 Spec. Springs, Koni Sport (Yellows), Steeda HD Camber Plates, Kenny Brown GT4 Roll Center Relocation Kit, KB Street/Comp LCA's, KB LCA Relocation Brackets, Steeda Adj. UCA & Steeda Energy Suspension Sys. Upper Diff Housing Bush | FRPP GT500 Forged wheels, (19X9.0 F & 19X10.0" R) | Brakes: FRPP Boss 302 Cooling Duct Kit, Steeda SS Brake Lines, GT500 13.8" Rear Rotors, GT500 HP Rear Brake Pads, Dot 4 High Temp Fluid, | Body: FRPP Boss 302S Grill, FRPP GT500 Rear Spoiler & Serviceable Gurney Strip, 3M Window Tint, (35/20), OEM Boss 302 Floor Mats & Boss 302 Car Cover, Pioneer TS-D6802R Speaker System, MonoChromatic Rear View Mirror, (Auto Dim, Home Link & Compass).

#15 Bad Boss 302

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 06:20 PM

Hi Pro, when I was at the Track Attack in April, I asked if the shifters were changed out because most of us hated the way the stock shifter was. They said the stock shifters were still in the cars. The one that I drove shifted so nice and easy. I'm thinking that all this car needs is to be driven hard and the good stuff will happen with time.



 

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#16 mycoolm3

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Posted 16 September 2012 - 07:44 PM

hi I don't own a boss 302 but I just had to sign up and tell you thank you . it made my 5.0 feel much better and it dosent get stuck to the floor anymore :) thanks again !!

#17 Rich B.

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 05:12 AM

Really good explaniations and especially photos; haven't got there yet, maybe someday...

#18 TMSBOSS

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Posted 17 October 2012 - 10:55 AM

Using a flat hand brake type vise grip instead of a needle nose made the spring remival effortless.

Slide the vise grip over two coild, clamp down removingtemsion fromt he spring. Take a screw driver and gently pry out the top pin. No need to slide the pin out, the pin sits in a perch not in a hole. Spring assembly falls out on your hand.

Much better clutch feel. My daughters 2013 V-6 performance package mustang also had this spring. Only takes about 5 minutes once you have done this a few times. Most of the time is getting me under the dash.

Hope this helps.

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#19 LuckySnake

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 11:43 AM

Using a flat hand brake type vise grip instead of a needle nose made the spring remival effortless.

Slide the vise grip over two coild, clamp down removingtemsion fromt he spring. Take a screw driver and gently pry out the top pin. No need to slide the pin out, the pin sits in a perch not in a hole. Spring assembly falls out on your hand.

Much better clutch feel. My daughters 2013 V-6 performance package mustang also had this spring. Only takes about 5 minutes once you have done this a few times. Most of the time is getting me under the dash.

Hope this helps.

 

Using a flat hand brake type vise grip instead of a needle nose made the spring remival effortless.

Slide the vise grip over two coild, clamp down removingtemsion fromt he spring. Take a screw driver and gently pry out the top pin. No need to slide the pin out, the pin sits in a perch not in a hole. Spring assembly falls out on your hand.

Much better clutch feel. My daughters 2013 V-6 performance package mustang also had this spring. Only takes about 5 minutes once you have done this a few times. Most of the time is getting me under the dash.

Hope this helps.

This did not work for me, pin does not want to slide out.


2013 RR BOSS 302 #2827

  • Optional Equipment - Recaro SPT Seats/Helical Diff
  • Dealer Installed - Trackey, Boss 302 Floormats
  • Mods - 3/4" Restrictor Plates

Notes - Boss 302 Car Cover in the trunk from the factory.

 

 


#20 LuckySnake

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 12:04 PM

Don't know what I'm doing wrong? couldn't get the top pin to budge and I tried rotating it, plus I had good leverage. 


2013 RR BOSS 302 #2827

  • Optional Equipment - Recaro SPT Seats/Helical Diff
  • Dealer Installed - Trackey, Boss 302 Floormats
  • Mods - 3/4" Restrictor Plates

Notes - Boss 302 Car Cover in the trunk from the factory.

 

 





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