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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Shifting/Clutch problems FIXED.


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108 replies to this topic

#1 winter599

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Posted 17 September 2014 - 01:01 PM

Figure I'd start a new thread on how my Boss was, and now is when it comes to shifting and all the other problems I experienced. Through this great site and the good info within, along with an understanding dealer, My boss works at it should. Yeah, a bit early for a long-term report but so far so good.  I don't think there was a single problem that I didn't have... clutch pedal not returning, very difficult, if not impossible to find gears at WOT and high rpm's, mis-shifts and generally sloppy feeling in the driveline.

 

First thing I did was talk to the dealer. They showed me the corporate memo relating to most of these problems and said they'd warranty the clutch pack. They also said they'd gladly install the soon to be acquired MGW shifter, Mcleod clutch line and bleeder kit for the cost of one hour labor.

 

The car was completed in one day and other than the cost of the extra parts I bought, it was $92 for labor. Previously, I shunned short shifters for all but my road race cars. I figure that the manufacturer synchs the shifter with how fast the trans can accept the shifts. While I do not ever intend to flat shift or even try to ram a gear excessively fast, I do expect it to be expedient and crisp.

 

After 5+ miles of warming up, I gave it hell off the line and deep into 5th before coasting out in 6th. Too good to be true, I tried it two more times. Flawless. After about 25 more normal miles, I'm still grinning as to how, finally, this car feels more real to me and the shifting matches the rest of the package. I forgot to mention I also installed the rear trans mount bushing to kill the slop. this was done before the clutch and it worked, kinda, but produced some minor though not annoying vibrations. Time will tell if this is the ultimate fix and if the transmission will ever be suspect, but for now I think anyone that is having these problems should call the dealer before the car runs out of warranty. It's my understanding that the lower the miles and further away from warranty expiration, the better it is to have the work done without question. I hope not to have the dealer touch this car ever again, I can't tell you how hard it was for me to sleep the night I dropped it off, not knowing the character of the tech who was going to work on it, but so far so good. I'll post in this thread after a bunch more miles if anything else comes up, but hoping this problem(s) are in the rearview.


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#2 Boss949

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Posted 17 September 2014 - 10:37 PM

First:   That's a great deal that the dealer did for you.

 

Second:   Good to find a solution that works.    I did the MGW;   CHE K Member Brace with V8 Torque limiters;  Clutch line and Whiteline Bushing.  Mine works flawlessly at WOT and around town.


  • winter599 likes this

2013 Boss PW TracKey; Recaro's; 3.73 Torsen; Roush Extreme Axle Back Exhaust; MGW Shifter; Cooltech Sound Tube Delete; Redline Hood Struts;Jegs Performance Cat Deletes; Airaid CAi, AED Tune (Performance, Drag, Lopey Idle); Griggs Racing Torque Arm Kit, CHE K Member V8 Engine Torque Limiters Competition; Hotchkis Sport Springs, Hotchkis LCA's, Whitleline Relocation Brackets; Whiteline Transmission Bushing,MT Street Radial ETII 305/35/19 (for summer)JLT Oil Separator,JPC Racing Line Lock, JPC Clutch Line.  Kooks LT 1 3/4, O/R X pipe, Resonator delete;  Forgestar CF5 19X10 Front +38, 19X11 Rear +53; Michelin Pilot Super Sports  295/30ZR/19 F, 325/30ZR/19 R.

 

 

Image5_zps6a36ec19.jpg


#3 TMSBOSS

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Posted 18 September 2014 - 03:11 AM

You both got a deal.

 

Dealer had to remove and reinstall the components your wanted installed.  No real additional time.

 

You had them installed for under  $100.00.  

 

Surprised to see an hourly rate under $100.00.

 

Good news all around


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Blackhawk13-40.jpg


#4 winter599

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Posted 18 September 2014 - 06:14 AM

Yeah, I'm actually a bit surprised at the cost myself, I expected 2-3 hours extra. Around here, in Pennsylvania Dutch country (notoriously a cheap region), many services cannot get the type of money they do closer to the bigger cities. But in the end, I'd have taken my car elsewhere if I thought it would have been better cared for, price be damned. Truly though, I do feel that if I waited until closer to the end of warranty, there may have been some kick back because after all, we're talking about a high wear item and not something like the rear window defroster not working  ;-)



#5 bossy13

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Posted 18 September 2014 - 06:48 PM

Another documented case where shifting issues were due to clutch.

 

Winter559,

Thank you for posting up your experience here.

This type of info is really helpful to those of us with same or similar issues.

 

You are fortunate to have found a good dealer / service dept.

I was going to plop in a RST this winter myslef, but now because of your post, I'm seriously considering taking the car to the dealer first.

With a printout of your story in hand I might add.

 

Perhaps Ford has sourced new or improved parts for the clutch ?

Does anybody know for certain ?

 

Thanks again for posting this up...

 - b13


Original: 2013 Race Red with TracKey, Recaro Seats, Torsen Diff, and Owners Kit.

Performance Mods: JLT Oil Separator, MGW Shifter, FRPP 84.5 MM TB, Airaid PJ Carbon Fiber Intake, Kooks 1-7/8" Shorty Headers (ceramic coated), Kooks Gen-II Side Pipes, MRT H-pipe, Borla Over-Axle Pipes, GT500 Quad Mufflers (painted black) with Valence, QTEC302 Electric Side-pipe Cutouts,  FRPP SS Clutch Line, FRPP Brake Cooling Kit, GT500 13.8" Rear Brake Upgrade, Vorshlag SS Brake Lines, AE 4" Aluminum DS with BMR safety loop, Shelby transmission scoop.

Suspension Mods: Steeda Boss Lowering Springs, Steeda HD Strut Mounts, Koni Yellow Dampers, Whiteline Panhard Bar with Brace, Whiteline LCAs with Relo Brackets.

Appearance Mods: Sound Tube Delete, Race Red Bumper Plugs, CDC Illuminated 'Boss 302' Sill Plates, RedLine Hood Struts, Blacked-out Hood Vents, MRT Aluminum Rear Louvers, SHR Flush Quarter Louvers (matte black), SHR Custom Fuel Door (matte black with RR '302' lettering), Moroso Coolant Reservoir. Moroso Battery & Brake Fluid Covers, CJPony Boss302 Rally Shift Knob.

Track & Safety Mods: Forgestar CF5 19x10" wheels (square configuration), Hoosier R6 295/35-19 R-compound tires, SRP Racing Pedals, LS Rear Seat Delete and Cross Brace (race red), CoolTech Roll Bar (race red) and Crow Harnesses (with Boss 302 emblem).

Planned Mods: Whiteline UCA, CoolTech Tow Hooks, Peterson Breather Can, McCloud RST Clutch, Maybe a set of Sweet BSS Wheels, 500+ BHP (one way or another).


#6 winter599

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 08:10 PM

Glad to help. As far as I know, the updated clutch kit is not something from a high end Mustang, as in the 302R or anything. It supposedly has a beefier build which keeps it true when spinning at higher RPM's. I would not do this warranty work unless you have the clutch line and shifter replaced, mainly due to the ease of installation with the transmission out of the car. both can be done with the trans installed but it is not nearly as easy. Besides, you'd hate to go through all that work and it not be 100% better.


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#7 winter599

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 08:35 PM

Boss 949, did the CHE K member brace add any vibes to the interior of the car? Thinking that is my next move although I'm pretty satisfied with things at the moment.

 


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#8 Boss949

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 11:14 PM

Boss 949, did the CHE K member brace add any vibes to the interior of the car? Thinking that is my next move although I'm pretty satisfied with things at the moment.

 

Not that I can remember.   The rear suspension mods caused some vibration issues.   Exhaust is loud enough to cover!!

 

The CHE really changed the shifting.  MGW was first and was huge; especially the 2-3.   CHE cured the 1-2  3-4.


  • TymeSlayer, bossy13 and winter599 like this

2013 Boss PW TracKey; Recaro's; 3.73 Torsen; Roush Extreme Axle Back Exhaust; MGW Shifter; Cooltech Sound Tube Delete; Redline Hood Struts;Jegs Performance Cat Deletes; Airaid CAi, AED Tune (Performance, Drag, Lopey Idle); Griggs Racing Torque Arm Kit, CHE K Member V8 Engine Torque Limiters Competition; Hotchkis Sport Springs, Hotchkis LCA's, Whitleline Relocation Brackets; Whiteline Transmission Bushing,MT Street Radial ETII 305/35/19 (for summer)JLT Oil Separator,JPC Racing Line Lock, JPC Clutch Line.  Kooks LT 1 3/4, O/R X pipe, Resonator delete;  Forgestar CF5 19X10 Front +38, 19X11 Rear +53; Michelin Pilot Super Sports  295/30ZR/19 F, 325/30ZR/19 R.

 

 

Image5_zps6a36ec19.jpg


#9 GHIGBoss

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 07:14 AM

I will say that MGW is a perfect shifter.  I had the same problem that most people have talked about with the car not shifting smooth from 2-3 and 4-5.  The only problem I have had with the clutch line is it went out on me.  I switched that over to a stainless steel line, then took out the clutch assist spring, and finally put in an MGW shifter and now the car shifts like a dream.  Now there are some people that just switch out the shifter to a Barton or MGW and they have smooth shifting and no problems at all.


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#10 djdonte

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 09:44 AM

I just aquired a 12 Boss and I have having the same problems... I cant find second or third when shifting WOT over 6800. At first I figured I just needed to get back in the groove since its been 5 or so years since I've drove a manual muscle car, but now I am sure it is not me. It feels like the transmission is not letting me into gear. After reading it seems the driveline is flexing and not letting me in the shift gates. I am ready to get rid of this car for a LS3 C6.. Will this MGW shifter really help all that much or is my car just a POS? I am taking it to the dealership today


2012 Performance White Boss 302 w/ Recaros and Torsen diff

 

Paxton 2200SL, E85, JMS BAP, ID1000s, Aeroforce Interceptors, MGW Race Spec, ARH Longtubes w/ off-road X-pipe, QTP side exhaust cut-outs, CHE K-member brace, CHE tubular LCAs, Whiteline LCA Relo Brackets, Darkstar wheels, 17x7 w/ 255s in front and 15x10 w/ 295/55/15 Mickey Thompson ET Streets out back, AED Tuned.

 

car%20small_zpsfdesqgvq.jpg

 

 


#11 fking1

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 04:14 PM

You might consider installing the Blowfish Transmission Support Bracket.

This seems to have solved the lockout at rev limit  problem on my 13 with a Barton Shifter.


Edited by fking1, 30 December 2014 - 04:14 PM.


#12 djdonte

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 12:33 PM

Thanks for the reply. How do you like the barton shifter? I was going to go with the MGW, as it looked like a realy high quality part. With the MGW already at over 400, another 250 seems pricey. I was going to try the MGW with the whiteline tranny bushing. Then I am going to have to replace the control arms to solve my wheel hop. I took my car to the dealership yesterday and drove it with a tech. I tried so hard to get it into 2nd that I tore the shifter boot and scratched the hell out of 2nd, even with the clutch all the way to the floor. He said he thinks I will need a new tranny. The transmission specialist is out for new years, but I am worried that they will not be able to reproduce the problem, as it only happens high up in the rpm range, and the tech mentioned something about not wanting to run it that hard when hes diagnosing it. I also found that a rear brake line is rubbing a control arm, and one of my side exhaust flex pipes is comming apart. Hopefully they let me know something next week. Thank god it is a CPO car, or else I would have sold it already. Its kind of dissapointing that I am having to put all this money in a car that is supposed to be ready to go. It has 23K miles. If the shifter and bushings dont let me shift at 7000+, I am going back to GM... My C6 did not have as nice of a exhaust growl stock, or manually adjustable suspension, but at least it let me bang gears right at redline.


2012 Performance White Boss 302 w/ Recaros and Torsen diff

 

Paxton 2200SL, E85, JMS BAP, ID1000s, Aeroforce Interceptors, MGW Race Spec, ARH Longtubes w/ off-road X-pipe, QTP side exhaust cut-outs, CHE K-member brace, CHE tubular LCAs, Whiteline LCA Relo Brackets, Darkstar wheels, 17x7 w/ 255s in front and 15x10 w/ 295/55/15 Mickey Thompson ET Streets out back, AED Tuned.

 

car%20small_zpsfdesqgvq.jpg

 

 


#13 fking1

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 12:52 PM

I would go with the MGW. Most of the posts here are very happy with it,

I am not too satisfied with the Barton, but, don't want to switch. It is good around town and the only prob is with the high RPM lockout although don't think the Barton causes that.

Again, I suggest the Blowfish bracket although believe their vibration bracket fix doesn't work with an MGW.



#14 bossy13

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Posted 03 January 2015 - 06:54 AM

Thanks for the reply. How do you like the barton shifter? I was going to go with the MGW, as it looked like a realy high quality part. With the MGW already at over 400, another 250 seems pricey. I was going to try the MGW with the whiteline tranny bushing. Then I am going to have to replace the control arms to solve my wheel hop. I took my car to the dealership yesterday and drove it with a tech. I tried so hard to get it into 2nd that I tore the shifter boot and scratched the hell out of 2nd, even with the clutch all the way to the floor. He said he thinks I will need a new tranny. The transmission specialist is out for new years, but I am worried that they will not be able to reproduce the problem, as it only happens high up in the rpm range, and the tech mentioned something about not wanting to run it that hard when hes diagnosing it. I also found that a rear brake line is rubbing a control arm, and one of my side exhaust flex pipes is comming apart. Hopefully they let me know something next week. Thank god it is a CPO car, or else I would have sold it already. Its kind of dissapointing that I am having to put all this money in a car that is supposed to be ready to go. It has 23K miles. If the shifter and bushings dont let me shift at 7000+, I am going back to GM... My C6 did not have as nice of a exhaust growl stock, or manually adjustable suspension, but at least it let me bang gears right at redline.

 

If you spend any time on this or any other Boss forum, you will quickly learn that the high-RPM lockout is a fairly common problem on our cars.

MGW and other fixes may help the problem. But it is also possible a week or defective clutch is the culprit.

We have reports of folks replacing their clutch (e.g. with a McCloud RST or RXT) and that solves all their shifting problems.

You might want to mention this (the clutch) to your dealer.

 

Bottom line is - it is possible to fix the lockout.

Of course, if your tranny is toast that will need to be addressed first.

It is frustrating that Ford hasn't been more assertive in helping to identify and fix this problem.

Good luck.

 

 - b13


Original: 2013 Race Red with TracKey, Recaro Seats, Torsen Diff, and Owners Kit.

Performance Mods: JLT Oil Separator, MGW Shifter, FRPP 84.5 MM TB, Airaid PJ Carbon Fiber Intake, Kooks 1-7/8" Shorty Headers (ceramic coated), Kooks Gen-II Side Pipes, MRT H-pipe, Borla Over-Axle Pipes, GT500 Quad Mufflers (painted black) with Valence, QTEC302 Electric Side-pipe Cutouts,  FRPP SS Clutch Line, FRPP Brake Cooling Kit, GT500 13.8" Rear Brake Upgrade, Vorshlag SS Brake Lines, AE 4" Aluminum DS with BMR safety loop, Shelby transmission scoop.

Suspension Mods: Steeda Boss Lowering Springs, Steeda HD Strut Mounts, Koni Yellow Dampers, Whiteline Panhard Bar with Brace, Whiteline LCAs with Relo Brackets.

Appearance Mods: Sound Tube Delete, Race Red Bumper Plugs, CDC Illuminated 'Boss 302' Sill Plates, RedLine Hood Struts, Blacked-out Hood Vents, MRT Aluminum Rear Louvers, SHR Flush Quarter Louvers (matte black), SHR Custom Fuel Door (matte black with RR '302' lettering), Moroso Coolant Reservoir. Moroso Battery & Brake Fluid Covers, CJPony Boss302 Rally Shift Knob.

Track & Safety Mods: Forgestar CF5 19x10" wheels (square configuration), Hoosier R6 295/35-19 R-compound tires, SRP Racing Pedals, LS Rear Seat Delete and Cross Brace (race red), CoolTech Roll Bar (race red) and Crow Harnesses (with Boss 302 emblem).

Planned Mods: Whiteline UCA, CoolTech Tow Hooks, Peterson Breather Can, McCloud RST Clutch, Maybe a set of Sweet BSS Wheels, 500+ BHP (one way or another).


#15 schusa

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 09:14 PM

Figure I'd start a new thread on how my Boss was, and now is when it comes to shifting and all the other problems I experienced. Through this great site and the good info within, along with an understanding dealer, My boss works at it should. Yeah, a bit early for a long-term report but so far so good.  I don't think there was a single problem that I didn't have... clutch pedal not returning, very difficult, if not impossible to find gears at WOT and high rpm's, mis-shifts and generally sloppy feeling in the driveline.

 

First thing I did was talk to the dealer. They showed me the corporate memo relating to most of these problems and said they'd warranty the clutch pack. They also said they'd gladly install the soon to be acquired MGW shifter, Mcleod clutch line and bleeder kit for the cost of one hour labor.

 

The car was completed in one day and other than the cost of the extra parts I bought, it was $92 for labor. Previously, I shunned short shifters for all but my road race cars. I figure that the manufacturer synchs the shifter with how fast the trans can accept the shifts. While I do not ever intend to flat shift or even try to ram a gear excessively fast, I do expect it to be expedient and crisp.

 

After 5+ miles of warming up, I gave it hell off the line and deep into 5th before coasting out in 6th. Too good to be true, I tried it two more times. Flawless. After about 25 more normal miles, I'm still grinning as to how, finally, this car feels more real to me and the shifting matches the rest of the package. I forgot to mention I also installed the rear trans mount bushing to kill the slop. this was done before the clutch and it worked, kinda, but produced some minor though not annoying vibrations. Time will tell if this is the ultimate fix and if the transmission will ever be suspect, but for now I think anyone that is having these problems should call the dealer before the car runs out of warranty. It's my understanding that the lower the miles and further away from warranty expiration, the better it is to have the work done without question. I hope not to have the dealer touch this car ever again, I can't tell you how hard it was for me to sleep the night I dropped it off, not knowing the character of the tech who was going to work on it, but so far so good. I'll post in this thread after a bunch more miles if anything else comes up, but hoping this problem(s) are in the rearview.

Can you tell me the name of the dealer that performed your repairs.  Mine is giving a line that they do not know what to do and Ford says that my shifting problems are "normal" so it would be very helpful if I knew who you dealer was so I can have mine contact them.

 

Thanks



#16 fking1

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 02:21 PM

Update to my lockout shifting problem.

Went to Milan Dragway yesterday.

Experimented with shifting and clutch depression on 4 runs,

Last 4 runs no lockouts.

Shifted at around 6000 rpm and made sure to depress the clutch fully. 

Was a hot day and track a bit slick and was only able to turn 13.6 @ 108.


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#17 CopStang

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 03:28 AM

Congrats on the fix. Is there any chance you got a copy of the memo or some more info that I can get to give to my stealership. They are telling me there is no issue because "there would be a TSB if there was." I have gone in several times now and its frustrating.

 

Thanks,

Rob



#18 fking1

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 07:44 AM

Congrats on the fix. Is there any chance you got a copy of the memo or some more info that I can get to give to my stealership. They are telling me there is no issue because "there would be a TSB if there was." I have gone in several times now and its frustrating.

 

Thanks,

Rob

 

Would also like this info if you have it.

Thxs

 



#19 302 Hi Pro

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Posted 25 September 2015 - 11:30 AM

Update to my lockout shifting problem.
Went to Milan Dragway yesterday.
Experimented with shifting and clutch depression on 4 runs,
Last 4 runs no lockouts.
Shifted at around 6000 rpm and made sure to depress the clutch fully. 
Was a hot day and track a bit slick and was only able to turn 13.6 @ 108.

Hi XKing:

I just wanted to share this with you about your quarter mile times. You ran 108 MPH on a 13.6 ET which tells me a few things regardless of your RT. First, 108 MPH indicates a12 something second run is in your Boss. Your 60' time was 2.5 something because you broke loose off the line. Like me you're probably on street tires.

Last thing on the above run. After you got the Boss rolling, you took off and you ran down your competitor. If you ran out of track, you lost, Or if you had enough track, you ran around him/her and won.

Work on you launch, if using TK / LC, lower your RPM's to 2,400 and feather the release of the clutch pedal. If not, rev to under 3K and feather the clutch release while applying more throttle moving to full throttle.

Did you need 5th gear?

Did you break loose on 2nd gear shifts? If so you shifted to soon.

Where did you run and at what altitude? Note: My track is 62' above sea level, well not exact, but probably within a few feet.

Did you chirp rubber in 3rd gear shift?

Did you use TK? And was TC completely off or did you run in TCSM, (Sport Mode).

Thanks in advance for sharing, I think we can both improve our times by sharing information. Let me know if I can help you with anything and if my above assumptions on your 13.6 ET run at 108 mph were right, close or not even close!

Again, thank you ever so for sharing your information.

Kind Regards,
Davis
2HP

Edited by 302 Hi Pro, 13 October 2015 - 06:38 PM.

2012 KB Boss 302 MC: 500A | Boss Production Line Assembly Number 2800. Vehicle Special Ordered with Recaro Sport Seats & 3.73:1 Torsen Option | Engine: FRPP 84.5MM TB, Peterson CJ Vent Can, TracKey Activated, AirAid CF PJ CAI, FRPP 84.5MM TB | Drivetrain: AE 4.0" Aluminum DS, MGW Gen 3 Race Spec Shifter, GT500 Clutch Pedal Box, FRPP Stainless Clutch Line, Dedicated Clutch Fluid Reservoir, FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop. | Exhaust: Silver Ceramic Kooks Super Street Headers, MagnaFlow Street/Comp 3.0" SS CB X-Pipe System, Open Kooks SS Boss Side Pipes. | Suspension: FRPP "T" Springs (alternate Steeda Boss Rear Springs), Koni Sports (Yellow) Adjustable Struts/Shocks, Steeda HD Camber Plates, Cortex Watts Link, Steeda Billet KB Poly/Spherical LCA's, KB LCA Relo Brkts, Steeda Adj. UCA & Energy Suspension Sys. Upper Diff Housing Bush, OEM Boss Rear Sway Bar | FRPP GT500 Forged wheels, (19X9.0 F & 19X10.0" R) | Brakes: FRPP Boss 302 Cooling Duct Kit, Steeda SS/Kevlar Brake Lines, GT500 13.8" Rear Rotors, GT500 Rear Brake Pads, Dot 4 Motul 600 HT Fluid | Body: FRPP Boss 302S Grill, FRPP Boss 302 LS Front Splitter, FRPP GT500 Rear Spoiler & Serviceable Gurney Strip, BFR Front Tow Hook, Jacking Plates, 3M Window Tint, (35/20), OEM Boss 302 Floor Mats & Boss 302 Car Cover, Pioneer TS-D6802R Speaker System, Auto Dim, Home Link & Compass Mirror. Notes: Current Intake System - Ram Air thru Front Grill Fog Light, OEM CAI Box and AEM Aluminum Intake Tube with Drop-In High Flow Filter. In Testing Spring 2016. SCT-X4 Tuner used exclusively for Data-Logging AFR/Timing Curves Only. FRPP TracKey is Preferred PCM Tune.


#20 fking1

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Posted 13 October 2015 - 03:22 PM

Sorry for the late reply.

Don't know altitude for Milan.

Trac Con off. Burns rubber in 2nd.

4 th gear at finish.

Reaction times near perfect. Original tires, don't hook up at all. Launch at 2500 rpm.

Considering a Spec Stage 2 or McLeod clutch and MGW to replace the Barton which I don't like.

 

Cheers 










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