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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Oil Pressure Gauge install


Best Answer TMSBOSS , 25 January 2016 - 11:07 AM

I bought the pod empty and added Autometer Elite series gauges.  The Elite series have a system where you can program warning lights.  Example, oil temp goes over 280 and the gauge is illuminated with a red light.  Colors and parameters are programmable.

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#21 302 Hi Pro

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 09:49 PM

So, in thinking about the Oil Temp senser placement, I think post cooler / pre oil filter would be a good point as you'll know the oil temp as its enroute to the main engine oil galley.

If there were no oil coolers in the equation, then I think the oil pan oil temp would be fine.

For me, it's a down the road project, so I have time to think about it. Also if your thinking about the Cool Tech LLC Boss oil cooler, then spend the few extra bucks and get the one with the T-Stat. Also, prime the engine prior to start up to fill the oil cooler so you don't have an extended no oil start up.

If I do the oil cooler route, then I'll just buy the Ford Performance oil cooler, (no T-Stat, but with a smaller oil cooler matrix), that was designed by Ford for our application.

Keep us posted when you can and thanks for the input.
2HP
  • Dimo likes this

2012 KB Boss 302 MC: 500A | Boss Production Line Assembly Number 2800. Vehicle Special Ordered with Recaro Sport Seats & 3.73:1 Torsen Option | Engine: FRPP 84.5MM TB, Peterson CJ Vent Can, TracKey Activated, AirAid CF PJ CAI, FRPP 84.5MM TB | Drivetrain: AE 4.0" Aluminum DS, MGW Gen 3 Race Spec Shifter, GT500 Clutch Pedal Box, FRPP Stainless Clutch Line, Dedicated Clutch Fluid Reservoir, FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop. | Exhaust: Silver Ceramic Kooks Super Street Headers, MagnaFlow Street/Comp 3.0" SS CB X-Pipe System, Open Kooks SS Boss Side Pipes. | Suspension: FRPP "T" Springs (alternate Steeda Boss Rear Springs), Koni Sports (Yellow) Adjustable Struts/Shocks, Steeda HD Camber Plates, Cortex Watts Link, Steeda Billet KB Poly/Spherical LCA's, KB LCA Relo Brkts, Steeda Adj. UCA & Energy Suspension Sys. Upper Diff Housing Bush, OEM Boss Rear Sway Bar | FRPP GT500 Forged wheels, (19X9.0 F & 19X10.0" R) | Brakes: FRPP Boss 302 Cooling Duct Kit, Steeda SS/Kevlar Brake Lines, GT500 13.8" Rear Rotors, GT500 Rear Brake Pads, Dot 4 Motul 600 HT Fluid | Body: FRPP Boss 302S Grill, FRPP Boss 302 LS Front Splitter, FRPP GT500 Rear Spoiler & Serviceable Gurney Strip, BFR Front Tow Hook, Jacking Plates, 3M Window Tint, (35/20), OEM Boss 302 Floor Mats & Boss 302 Car Cover, Pioneer TS-D6802R Speaker System, Auto Dim, Home Link & Compass Mirror. Notes: Current Intake System - Ram Air thru Front Grill Fog Light, OEM CAI Box and AEM Aluminum Intake Tube with Drop-In High Flow Filter. In Testing Spring 2016. SCT-X4 Tuner used exclusively for Data-Logging AFR/Timing Curves Only. FRPP TracKey is Preferred PCM Tune.







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#22 Dimo

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 02:05 PM

Got the CoolTech oil cooler with t-stat, and installed the oil temp and pressure senders in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler rather than the eng block. Keeps them away from vibrations, and I think a more accurate spot for reading.

Attached Files


  • TymeSlayer and 302 Hi Pro like this
Nordschleife Karussel
Eau Rouge

 

 

"Blaze"

2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302

Recaro and Torsen Diff Option, TracKey Enabled

 

 

Engine: Airaid PJ CAI - CoolTech Oil Cooler - JLT Oil Separators

Drivetrain: FRPP Short Throw Shifter - FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop - FRPP Rear Diff Cover

Suspension: SR Performance Rear Shock Tower Brace

Brakes: Blowfish Racing Brake Duct Kit - Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Interior: AutoMeter Gauges (oil pressure & temp, air/fuel) - FRPP LS Gauge Pod

Exterior: Blowfish Racing Tow Hook (front) - CoolTech Tow Hook (rear) - FRPP Boss 302S Grille - GT500 Rear Spoiler - Raxiom Taillights

Wheels & Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports


#23 Dimo

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 02:07 PM

I bought the pod empty and added Autometer Elite series gauges.  The Elite series have a system where you can program warning lights.  Example, oil temp goes over 280 and the gauge is illuminated with a red light.  Colors and parameters are programmable.

 

Were you able to wire the AutoMeter dimmer in with your factory switch?

 

Also, not sure why it's turning my pics sideways when I upload them. Could just be my phone...


Nordschleife Karussel
Eau Rouge

 

 

"Blaze"

2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302

Recaro and Torsen Diff Option, TracKey Enabled

 

 

Engine: Airaid PJ CAI - CoolTech Oil Cooler - JLT Oil Separators

Drivetrain: FRPP Short Throw Shifter - FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop - FRPP Rear Diff Cover

Suspension: SR Performance Rear Shock Tower Brace

Brakes: Blowfish Racing Brake Duct Kit - Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Interior: AutoMeter Gauges (oil pressure & temp, air/fuel) - FRPP LS Gauge Pod

Exterior: Blowfish Racing Tow Hook (front) - CoolTech Tow Hook (rear) - FRPP Boss 302S Grille - GT500 Rear Spoiler - Raxiom Taillights

Wheels & Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports


#24 TMSBOSS

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 08:55 PM

 

Were you able to wire the AutoMeter dimmer in with your factory switch?

 

Also, not sure why it's turning my pics sideways when I upload them. Could just be my phone...

 

Unfortunately, Not Yet.  I seldom drive at night but do need to fix this.  

 

Would be happy to know what wire(s) you connect to make the gauge lights dim.  Currently I have the gauge lights connected to a switched circuit.  Awfully bright at night.  


Blackhawk13-40.jpg


#25 Dimo

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 08:33 AM

The gauges are just running off of the AutoMeter dimmer now. It has a dial on it, and mounted next to the OBD2 port. It's out of sight, and then I can just reach down and turn the dial to adjust the gauge dimming
Nordschleife Karussel
Eau Rouge

 

 

"Blaze"

2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302

Recaro and Torsen Diff Option, TracKey Enabled

 

 

Engine: Airaid PJ CAI - CoolTech Oil Cooler - JLT Oil Separators

Drivetrain: FRPP Short Throw Shifter - FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop - FRPP Rear Diff Cover

Suspension: SR Performance Rear Shock Tower Brace

Brakes: Blowfish Racing Brake Duct Kit - Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Interior: AutoMeter Gauges (oil pressure & temp, air/fuel) - FRPP LS Gauge Pod

Exterior: Blowfish Racing Tow Hook (front) - CoolTech Tow Hook (rear) - FRPP Boss 302S Grille - GT500 Rear Spoiler - Raxiom Taillights

Wheels & Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports


#26 Dimo

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 08:35 AM

The factory dimmer control module did not like having the AutoMeter dimmer in its circuit. It noticed something different, and went into safe mode. My Ford dealership had to completely reflash and reset that module
Nordschleife Karussel
Eau Rouge

 

 

"Blaze"

2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302

Recaro and Torsen Diff Option, TracKey Enabled

 

 

Engine: Airaid PJ CAI - CoolTech Oil Cooler - JLT Oil Separators

Drivetrain: FRPP Short Throw Shifter - FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop - FRPP Rear Diff Cover

Suspension: SR Performance Rear Shock Tower Brace

Brakes: Blowfish Racing Brake Duct Kit - Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Interior: AutoMeter Gauges (oil pressure & temp, air/fuel) - FRPP LS Gauge Pod

Exterior: Blowfish Racing Tow Hook (front) - CoolTech Tow Hook (rear) - FRPP Boss 302S Grille - GT500 Rear Spoiler - Raxiom Taillights

Wheels & Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports


#27 TymeSlayer

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 09:03 AM

Hey Dimo,

 

Curious as to how the CoolTech Oil Cooler install went? I have this on a short list of TTD and am curious as to how long and how difficult the install went. I'm also looking at using the thermostat. 

 

Kirk


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#28 Dimo

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 09:37 AM

I definitely recommend the one with the t-stat, especially if you're planning on leaving the factory oil cooler installed. Plus, you won't get sender mounting points on the non-t-stat one.

It was a fairly difficult install, mostly due to the running of the oil lines. I'll have to get some pics, but the plastic plate underneath the eng had to be cut a little bit to allow for room to route (the aft one that says "remove for oil change". Also, the forward one had to be shimmed down about an inch to allow for room (which made it level with the aft plate). And had to cut the inside of the front bumper a little bit to make room for the senders. But, once completed, it looks completely stock/factory from the outside. And it's a great quality unit
  • TymeSlayer likes this
Nordschleife Karussel
Eau Rouge

 

 

"Blaze"

2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302

Recaro and Torsen Diff Option, TracKey Enabled

 

 

Engine: Airaid PJ CAI - CoolTech Oil Cooler - JLT Oil Separators

Drivetrain: FRPP Short Throw Shifter - FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop - FRPP Rear Diff Cover

Suspension: SR Performance Rear Shock Tower Brace

Brakes: Blowfish Racing Brake Duct Kit - Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Interior: AutoMeter Gauges (oil pressure & temp, air/fuel) - FRPP LS Gauge Pod

Exterior: Blowfish Racing Tow Hook (front) - CoolTech Tow Hook (rear) - FRPP Boss 302S Grille - GT500 Rear Spoiler - Raxiom Taillights

Wheels & Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports


#29 Dimo

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 10:07 AM

For the life of me, I cannot seem to find this post again (fortunately I had snapped a pic of it). But here is extremely helpful info on what adapters you will need to mount the senders to the sandwich plate, as they are completely different threads:

Attached Files


  • TymeSlayer likes this
Nordschleife Karussel
Eau Rouge

 

 

"Blaze"

2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302

Recaro and Torsen Diff Option, TracKey Enabled

 

 

Engine: Airaid PJ CAI - CoolTech Oil Cooler - JLT Oil Separators

Drivetrain: FRPP Short Throw Shifter - FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop - FRPP Rear Diff Cover

Suspension: SR Performance Rear Shock Tower Brace

Brakes: Blowfish Racing Brake Duct Kit - Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Interior: AutoMeter Gauges (oil pressure & temp, air/fuel) - FRPP LS Gauge Pod

Exterior: Blowfish Racing Tow Hook (front) - CoolTech Tow Hook (rear) - FRPP Boss 302S Grille - GT500 Rear Spoiler - Raxiom Taillights

Wheels & Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports


#30 TymeSlayer

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 10:51 AM

I'm not running the front splash shield since I put in all those BMR components up front (A-arms, K-member and radiator support). Did the CoolTech kit come with good install instruction? If you have any pictures of the install that would be great as I expect to get my CoolTech kit is a week or so. By the way, I'm just running with the LS dash Gauge Pod kit from FRPP and the oil sensor hookup was tough but not undoable. I suppose I'll be redoing this now with the new oil cooler. 


  • 302 Hi Pro likes this

FRPP 84.5MM Throttle Body / 302S Bumpsteer Kit / FR500S Front Wheel Hub and Rear Wheel Studs / Front Brake Cooling Ducts / LS Dash Gauges / LS Pedestal Spoiler / Recaro Seats/ Stainless Steel Clutch Line / T-Springs / Torsen Differential / TracKey -  BFR Aluminum Rear Brake Caliper Bracket / Fire Extinguisher Mount / Front Tow Hook Kit - BMR A-Arms / Front Drive Shaft Safety Loop / K-Member / Lower Control Arms / Radiator Support / Upper Control Arms / Watts Link - ForgeStar CF5V Matte Black – Mickey Thompson Street Comps - Hawk High Performance Ceramic Pads  - DBA Slotted Rotors - Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines - Kooks Shorty’s Headers / Boss 302 Side Pipes – Borla ATAKs Axle Backs / 2-3/4” Over Axle – MRT H-Pipes -QTP Electric Cutouts - Driveshaft Shop One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft - Airaid Parnelli Jones Cold Air Intake - CoolTech Boss 302 Oil Cooler with T-Stat / 6PT Harness Belts and Clips - Corbeau Harness Bar - Peterson Air-Oil Separator - Moroso Overflow Tank - SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch Kit / Lightweight Steel Flywheel - MGW Race Spec Shifter - Koni Yellow Sports - Maximum Motorsport Caster-Camber Plates  - Aggressor Airflow Engraved Front Splitter

 

Member: FRMC - MCA - NASA Rocky Mountain

 

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#31 Dimo

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 02:43 PM

Nice! I would really like to do that same BMR setup when I get back to the States.

Not having the splash shield will be helpful because the only really gray area on the install was whether to route the lines above or below the radiator support. Mine are routed below, hence the trimming of the shields/plates. Above would've put it a little too close to the fan, I think. I will get some pics posted tomorrow, when I get a chance
  • TymeSlayer and 302 Hi Pro like this
Nordschleife Karussel
Eau Rouge

 

 

"Blaze"

2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302

Recaro and Torsen Diff Option, TracKey Enabled

 

 

Engine: Airaid PJ CAI - CoolTech Oil Cooler - JLT Oil Separators

Drivetrain: FRPP Short Throw Shifter - FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop - FRPP Rear Diff Cover

Suspension: SR Performance Rear Shock Tower Brace

Brakes: Blowfish Racing Brake Duct Kit - Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Interior: AutoMeter Gauges (oil pressure & temp, air/fuel) - FRPP LS Gauge Pod

Exterior: Blowfish Racing Tow Hook (front) - CoolTech Tow Hook (rear) - FRPP Boss 302S Grille - GT500 Rear Spoiler - Raxiom Taillights

Wheels & Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports


#32 WHO DA

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 04:20 PM

I guess this thread is as good as the next to blow the dust off for some q&a. I figure it's easier to fire out the questions rather than comb thru the older threads;

I'm on the fence with the LS Gauge Pod. I want it, but it's just too damn expensive considering I could piece it together myself for less. The hang up is, as others here have mentioned, the LS pod is so easy/clean/reliable to pass up. My question(s) are, where has anyone's ran a water temp gauge from? The LS pod splices cleanly into factory wiring, without the need for an aftermarket sending unit. I emailed autometer asking if I could just do that with a solo gauge but apparently that only works for the gauge in that pod. Where can I CLEANLY tap into to run a water temp gauge? I'm aware of the inline 'T' fittings, but after installing the Paxton kit my coolant system has had enough splices, not loving the idea to add more. But if that's the only real option, meh. Guess I'll have no choice. Read somewhere about using a plug in the block where a block heater would mount??

Second question, oil pressure gauge. Where have others gone to tap in? I've seen guys here create a sculpture of fittings teeing off the oem sending unit, is that the only/best method? Leaks? What size fittings did guys have to source out? Looked into the sandwich plate idea, not overly confident in that idea either.

I keep coming back to LS pod, and would end up tossing the performance gauge out of it and installing something useful in its place. But seems like a waste of $$ considering the cost of that piece. Appreciate the feedback, looking forward to anyone's clean n easy solution to help me decide on those couple gauges.

Thx,
Ryan

#33 Rich B.

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 06:57 PM

Good questions and research but why would you want the pod when the '13 has those gauges in digital format, unless you have a '12 Boss? Or the pod on a '13 might be nice with different gauges other than what Ford supplies as mentioned. Gauges can be had now also without having to string wiring (air-core/air-drive).
https://www.autometer.com/gauges.html Same company as the Ford pod gauges is my understanding.

Edited by Rich B., 29 January 2018 - 07:17 PM.


#34 WHO DA

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 07:03 PM

Good questions and research but why would you want the pod when the '13 has those gauges in digital format, unless you have a '12 Boss? Or the pod on a '13 might be nice with different gauges other than what Ford supplies as mentioned. Gauges can be had now also without having to string wiring.


Same gauges as in the ‘12’s I’m assuming; glorified dummy lights. The coolant temp isn’t actually coolant temp, it’s derived from the cylinder head temp. And the oil pressure also is just “normal” or “not normal”. I’d like something a little more ‘real time’, especially running boost. Peace of mind and also the gauge pack is cool looking as hell. Lol
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#35 Rich B.

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Posted 29 January 2018 - 07:23 PM

Your too fast was still editing WDA, Autometer site may be useful:)

Edited by Rich B., 30 January 2018 - 05:14 AM.


#36 Dimo

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 12:21 PM

Cylinder head temp is a reliable way to read coolant temp. It seems to read just a little higher than actual coolant temp, but anything your car does (like go into limp mode for high temps) will be based off of CHT anyway. So the factory gauge on the 12’s and 13’s will work just fine. If you really want to install a coolant gauge, you could look into putting the sender in the block heater mounting port.

I’m reading my oil temp from the sandwich plate on my CoolTech oil cooler, but their new design does not include the port for the sender anymore. As far as gauge pods, I had the Speed of Sound A-pillar originally because I didn’t want to cut my dash for the LS. But I couldn’t see anything for turning left on track days (when you’re looking further ahead than daily driving), so I switched to the LS setup and love it. I have oil temp & pressure, and an air/fuel from AutoMeter.
  • WHO DA likes this
Nordschleife Karussel
Eau Rouge

 

 

"Blaze"

2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302

Recaro and Torsen Diff Option, TracKey Enabled

 

 

Engine: Airaid PJ CAI - CoolTech Oil Cooler - JLT Oil Separators

Drivetrain: FRPP Short Throw Shifter - FRPP Trans Cooler Scoop - FRPP Rear Diff Cover

Suspension: SR Performance Rear Shock Tower Brace

Brakes: Blowfish Racing Brake Duct Kit - Steeda Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Interior: AutoMeter Gauges (oil pressure & temp, air/fuel) - FRPP LS Gauge Pod

Exterior: Blowfish Racing Tow Hook (front) - CoolTech Tow Hook (rear) - FRPP Boss 302S Grille - GT500 Rear Spoiler - Raxiom Taillights

Wheels & Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sports









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