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Oil Change Method (Same or different from Mustang GT procedure?)


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14 replies to this topic

#1 MustangLife

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 09:52 AM

I don't care for dealers local to me as they have made some simple mistakes in the past with my past Mustangs and just don't care to let them make any with my Boss. So I am going to a local shop were a friend of mine is a lead mechanic. 

 

Just curious is changing the oil in our Boss 302 the same as a regular Mustang GT? I know the Boss has some extras like an oil cooler and all. Are there any additional steps to the stadard how to oil change on a regular standard Mustang GT?

 

I know for warranty I need 8.5 quarts of 5W-50. Full Synthetic oil that meets Ford spec WSS-M2C931-B. From my research at the moment the only oil that meets this is Motorcraft so planning on picking up the oil at my local dealer this morning. As long as I have a receipt for the purchase of the oil from the dealer it doesn't matter if I do it myself with friend at his shop right? I will not get any papers from them as he does it for free "pull in, do it, and pull out".

 
As far as filter the FL500S is the recommend filter correct?
 
Thanks in advance!

Edited by MustangLife, 19 May 2017 - 09:58 AM.







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#2 Rich B.

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 06:04 PM

Glad to see this forum finally change. Believe there's 2 different filter #'s that's compatable, one filter is better than the other. Something to do with pressure relief valve or other, somebody will know. Also may show full on dipstick at 8 qtrs. with change until motor is cycled, then will accept extra 1/2 qt. in crankcase.

Keep all receipts and should be fine with doing self oil change and all those other things.
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#3 MustangLife

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 07:11 PM

Glad to see this forum finally change. Believe there's 2 different filter #'s that's compatable, one filter is better than the other. Something to do with pressure relief valve or other, somebody will know. Also may show full on dipstick at 8 qtrs. with change until motor is cycled, then will accept extra 1/2 qt. in crankcase.

Keep all receipts and should be fine with doing self oil change and all those other things.

 

 

Glad to see this forum finally change? What you mean?

 

Yes there is the FL500S which I believe is stock and was what I was asking then there is a FRPP HP and a FL800 I believe. The FL800 I think is rated worse then the FL500S and the FRPP filter from what I have found is for higher track use and less street use.

 

Mainly looking to make sure oil change process is standard like a regular Mustang GT and not any special steps to drain oil since we have oil coilers and all. Also make sure no special steps for the first oil cycle.


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#4 Rich B.

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 04:54 AM

Roger that on the filter types and ratings. I use compressed air to aid in moving all that residue oil left in the motor, don't need much. Wrap rag around air gun and insert in oil fill port. Was changing lawnmower oil, used air so accidentally sprayed residual oil all over wife's car lol. But the lawnmower was drained.

Some have experienced the motor ticking sound too after fresh oil. No reason why but Ford makes an additive for that, in depth forum somewheres several years back.

Oh, forgot forum change question. Meaning I had a thread here and it stayed way too long, glad to see new post and info. Think one I started goes back to March still on Boss 302 Clubhouse. Wait, that goes back to Sept. 2015, time sails by.

Have to really proof read my ramblings, spell check errors and many times I know what I mean on comments but the only one. Also here when you really want to find an answer the entire topic will change to something else within hours (if it stays that long very lucky). I give up but once in a blue moon?

Edited by Rich B., 21 May 2017 - 03:20 AM.


#5 TymeSlayer

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 06:57 AM

Remove filter. Drain oil. Replace filter. Refill oil. Pretty basic stuff. Stick with the OEM filter as there is no great need to change it to the racing type. If you really want to know what going on inside your engine, send a few ounces of your oil to Blackstone and have them do an analysis. 

 

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/


FRPP 84.5MM Throttle Body / 302S Bumpsteer Kit / FR500S Front Wheel Hub and Rear Wheel Studs / Front Brake Cooling Ducts / LS Dash Gauges / LS Pedestal Spoiler / Recaro Seats/ Stainless Steel Clutch Line / T-Springs / Torsen Differential / TracKey -  BFR Aluminum Rear Brake Caliper Bracket / Fire Extinguisher Mount / Front Tow Hook Kit - BMR A-Arms / Front Drive Shaft Safety Loop / K-Member / Lower Control Arms / Radiator Support / Upper Control Arms / Watts Link - ForgeStar CF5V Matte Black – Mickey Thompson Street Comps - Hawk High Performance Ceramic Pads  - DBA Slotted Rotors - Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines - Kooks Shorty’s Headers / Boss 302 Side Pipes – Borla ATAKs Axle Backs / 2-3/4” Over Axle – MRT H-Pipes -QTP Electric Cutouts - Driveshaft Shop One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft - Airaid Parnelli Jones Cold Air Intake - CoolTech Boss 302 Oil Cooler with T-Stat / 6PT Harness Belts and Clips - Corbeau Harness Bar - Peterson Air-Oil Separator - Moroso Overflow Tank - SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch Kit / Lightweight Steel Flywheel - MGW Race Spec Shifter - Koni Yellow Sports - Maximum Motorsport Caster-Camber Plates  - Aggressor Airflow Engraved Front Splitter

 

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#6 25dc

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 07:22 AM

I know all about the engine tick. After receiving a new short block from Ford last June, everything was nice and quiet for 3500 miles. I had the oil changed two weeks ago by the Ford dealer that did the engine change and now the same ticking noise is back. They put in 8 quarts of Motorcraft fully synthetic 5w50 as required and the same noise is back in this new short block engine. The service manager told me to put 200-300 miles on it and it should go away. I am starting to think about changing brands of oil. I have heard that Joe Gibbs Driven or Red Line 5w50 fully synthetic oil may help the ticking problem.



#7 fking1

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 11:13 AM

Try Ampsoil 5w50.

Has good specs.

Use it in my Boss .



#8 25dc

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 06:37 PM

Thanks fking1 We have the same color!  Amsoil certainly has outstanding reviews. Have you had any ticking noise?



#9 Hwycycle

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 08:10 AM

Hi guys, I'm looking to change my oil too... the car has only 1600 miles and it was first changed @ 900 miles. I have the warm-up tick/tap... and was considering Amsoil also.

Anyone else have input?

On a side note, is there a set of molded splash guards for the Boss? My neighbor has a lot of road debris.... and the sticky tires is throwing pebbles all over the wheel wells...

#10 fking1

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 09:11 AM

No ticking with Ampsoil 5w50.



#11 bossy13

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 03:09 PM

No ticking with Ampsoil 5w50.

 

Did you have the tick before switching to the Ampsoil ?


Original: 2013 Race Red with TracKey, Recaro Seats, Torsen Diff, and Owners Kit.

Performance Mods: JLT Oil Separator, MGW Shifter, FRPP 84.5 MM TB, Airaid PJ Carbon Fiber Intake, Kooks 1-7/8" Shorty Headers (ceramic coated), Kooks Gen-II Side Pipes, MRT H-pipe, Borla Over-Axle Pipes, GT500 Quad Mufflers (painted black) with Valence, QTEC302 Electric Side-pipe Cutouts,  FRPP SS Clutch Line, FRPP Brake Cooling Kit, GT500 13.8" Rear Brake Upgrade, Vorshlag SS Brake Lines, AE 4" Aluminum DS with BMR safety loop, Shelby transmission scoop.

Suspension Mods: Steeda Boss Lowering Springs, Steeda HD Strut Mounts, Koni Yellow Dampers, Whiteline Panhard Bar with Brace, Whiteline LCAs with Relo Brackets.

Appearance Mods: Sound Tube Delete, Race Red Bumper Plugs, CDC Illuminated 'Boss 302' Sill Plates, RedLine Hood Struts, Blacked-out Hood Vents, MRT Aluminum Rear Louvers, SHR Flush Quarter Louvers (matte black), SHR Custom Fuel Door (matte black with RR '302' lettering), Moroso Coolant Reservoir. Moroso Battery & Brake Fluid Covers, CJPony Boss302 Rally Shift Knob.

Track & Safety Mods: Forgestar CF5 19x10" wheels (square configuration), Hoosier R6 295/35-19 R-compound tires, SRP Racing Pedals, LS Rear Seat Delete and Cross Brace (race red), CoolTech Roll Bar (race red) and Crow Harnesses (with Boss 302 emblem).

Planned Mods: Whiteline UCA, CoolTech Tow Hooks, Peterson Breather Can, McCloud RST Clutch, Maybe a set of Sweet BSS Wheels, 500+ BHP (one way or another).


#12 fking1

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 08:43 PM

Never a tick , with Motorcraft or Ampsoil.



#13 TymeSlayer

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Posted 28 May 2017 - 07:54 AM

Takes a licking but still no ticking. Changed my oil for the fifth tyme in 8500 miles after installing the CoolTech oil cooler. Took her out for a 50 mile drive and she's humming sweetly as she has from day one. Funny how some get the ticking and others don't. 


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FRPP 84.5MM Throttle Body / 302S Bumpsteer Kit / FR500S Front Wheel Hub and Rear Wheel Studs / Front Brake Cooling Ducts / LS Dash Gauges / LS Pedestal Spoiler / Recaro Seats/ Stainless Steel Clutch Line / T-Springs / Torsen Differential / TracKey -  BFR Aluminum Rear Brake Caliper Bracket / Fire Extinguisher Mount / Front Tow Hook Kit - BMR A-Arms / Front Drive Shaft Safety Loop / K-Member / Lower Control Arms / Radiator Support / Upper Control Arms / Watts Link - ForgeStar CF5V Matte Black – Mickey Thompson Street Comps - Hawk High Performance Ceramic Pads  - DBA Slotted Rotors - Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines - Kooks Shorty’s Headers / Boss 302 Side Pipes – Borla ATAKs Axle Backs / 2-3/4” Over Axle – MRT H-Pipes -QTP Electric Cutouts - Driveshaft Shop One Piece Aluminum Driveshaft - Airaid Parnelli Jones Cold Air Intake - CoolTech Boss 302 Oil Cooler with T-Stat / 6PT Harness Belts and Clips - Corbeau Harness Bar - Peterson Air-Oil Separator - Moroso Overflow Tank - SPEC Stage 2+ Clutch Kit / Lightweight Steel Flywheel - MGW Race Spec Shifter - Koni Yellow Sports - Maximum Motorsport Caster-Camber Plates  - Aggressor Airflow Engraved Front Splitter

 

Member: FRMC - MCA - NASA Rocky Mountain

 

Sweet Lorraine - Circa March 2015

 

 


#14 Rich B.

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Posted 29 May 2017 - 04:53 AM

Could something of been reversed on those motors that tick going down the Windsor assembly line? Thinking of cams assy's. where a part(s) fits either way, but only right one way.

Know of an instance of engine ticking on a Ford Galaxy ('67 now) and come to find out the rocker cover with oil cap was installed backwards. The oil fill baffle was hitting on a rocker arm, reversed cover and it was fine, tick gone. Then somebody installed pistons in blocks with all the ring gaps in perfect alignment (no stagger). Anything possible, the most likely cause is always least obvious.

Edited by Rich B., 29 May 2017 - 04:57 AM.

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#15 Ginger

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Posted 29 May 2017 - 06:49 AM

A bunch of old schooled thoughts here that are very important. I like it and love this statement by Rich B.  

 Anything possible, the most likely cause is always least obvious.


Edited by Ginger, 29 May 2017 - 06:50 AM.

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